Post by SWRR on Apr 16, 2009 18:48:22 GMT
CORN SNAKE
ELAPHE GUTTATA
Introduction
This North American Rat Snake is probably by far the most commonly kept and propagated species of snake in the world, no other snake can compare to the Corn, its availability in pattern and color morphs combined with its placid nature make it by far the first choice for anyone beginning with reptiles. Speak to anybody who keeps snakes and you will probably find they first started with Corns, many of the largest breeders in the world learned the foundations of their hobby through the keeping of this species.
Origin : South Eastern United States.
Size : On average Corns will reach a length of 150 to 180cm Reaching sexual maturity in their second to third year.
Housing
Adult Corns can be housed in a purpose built vivarium 100cm x 50cm x 50cm.Juvenile and sub-adults are managed better in proportionally smaller units.Ensure the unit is well vented to allow good air circulation and prevent high levels of humidity. Substrate can be wood chipping, newspaper or a commercially prepared reptile bedding available from most reptile outlets.The provision of a hidebox is a useful addition, this can be as simple as a cork bark tube. No special form of lighting is required a normal daylight tube is more than adequate for illumination.A cage lock is also a wise investment as all snakes can be determined escape artists.
Heating
The vivarium should be heated to a temperature of between 25-30C, this can be achieved using a thermostatically controlled heat mat placed on the floor of the vivarium, it should cover no more than 50% of the floor area facilitating a temperature gradient within the vivarium, this will assist the snake in controlling its body temperature by means of thermoregulation. Always invest in a good quality thermometer.
Feeding
Corn snakes feed readily on a diet of pre-killed rodents, mice being the common choice, these can be offered at a appropriate size for your animal. Defrosted food should be warmed to blood temperature prior to feeding. These use of long tweezers is helpful in preventing cross-scenting from hand to rodent (especially with hatchling and juvenile snakes). A sturdy bowl of fresh water should be placed in the vivarium at all times.
Breeding
To facilitate reproduction in Corns and many other rat snakes a cooling down period is required. Preparations for this takes place during late summer when the animals are fed intensively to build up fat reserves for hibernation as well protein and calcium for future egg production in females. Prior to cooling the snake should be fasted for a period of 3-4 weeks to allow all food to pass through its digestive system. The cooling down can then begin, this should be a gradual process over a number of days until the desired temperature of around 8-10c is achieved, during this period feeding is stopped, but clean water should still be made available. The cooling period should last around 10-12 weeks during late November through to January. During cooling the animals should be disturbed as little as possible, although it is wise to make regular visual checks.In late January early February the temperature can be gradually raised again over a number of days and feeding can commence. Food slightly smaller than normal should be fed at first until the animal has had at least 2 to 3 meals. A normal diet can then be resumed.
At this stage pairs can be introduced and if successful copulation will then take place, this can last for only a few minutes to hours and be repeated over a number of days. During introduction the pair should be observed and if mating does not occur separate and try again a few days later. Introduction of the female after shedding has proved very successful in stimulating copulation.If copulation was achieved the female will cease feeding 2 to 3 weeks after mating.
The gestation period after mating is normally about 60 days, then around 14 days prior to laying the female will undergo a pre-laying slough,this is then an indication to put a nest box into the vivarium. A 5ltr plastic ice cream container makes an ideal nest box, this should be sealed with a hole cut in the front to allow access, this can then be lined with either damp sphagnum moss or vermiculite.The female will often enter the box for long periods of time prior to laying so one should make regular checks to see if egg laying has been completed. Once the eggs have been laid they can be carefully removed to a suitable container for incubation. Vermiculite is probably the most common incubation medium, this should mixed water equal to weight of vermiculite.The eggs should then be incubated at 90% to 100% humidity at a temperature of 26-30c and all going well should hatch in about 60 days.
During incubation some eggs may discolor, this can be quite normal, never discard an egg until you are completely sure the egg is bad, if fungus appears on an egg obtain some athletes foot powder and then using a very soft brush lightly dust the offending egg, this should help combat the fungus
ELAPHE GUTTATA
Introduction
This North American Rat Snake is probably by far the most commonly kept and propagated species of snake in the world, no other snake can compare to the Corn, its availability in pattern and color morphs combined with its placid nature make it by far the first choice for anyone beginning with reptiles. Speak to anybody who keeps snakes and you will probably find they first started with Corns, many of the largest breeders in the world learned the foundations of their hobby through the keeping of this species.
Origin : South Eastern United States.
Size : On average Corns will reach a length of 150 to 180cm Reaching sexual maturity in their second to third year.
Housing
Adult Corns can be housed in a purpose built vivarium 100cm x 50cm x 50cm.Juvenile and sub-adults are managed better in proportionally smaller units.Ensure the unit is well vented to allow good air circulation and prevent high levels of humidity. Substrate can be wood chipping, newspaper or a commercially prepared reptile bedding available from most reptile outlets.The provision of a hidebox is a useful addition, this can be as simple as a cork bark tube. No special form of lighting is required a normal daylight tube is more than adequate for illumination.A cage lock is also a wise investment as all snakes can be determined escape artists.
Heating
The vivarium should be heated to a temperature of between 25-30C, this can be achieved using a thermostatically controlled heat mat placed on the floor of the vivarium, it should cover no more than 50% of the floor area facilitating a temperature gradient within the vivarium, this will assist the snake in controlling its body temperature by means of thermoregulation. Always invest in a good quality thermometer.
Feeding
Corn snakes feed readily on a diet of pre-killed rodents, mice being the common choice, these can be offered at a appropriate size for your animal. Defrosted food should be warmed to blood temperature prior to feeding. These use of long tweezers is helpful in preventing cross-scenting from hand to rodent (especially with hatchling and juvenile snakes). A sturdy bowl of fresh water should be placed in the vivarium at all times.
Breeding
To facilitate reproduction in Corns and many other rat snakes a cooling down period is required. Preparations for this takes place during late summer when the animals are fed intensively to build up fat reserves for hibernation as well protein and calcium for future egg production in females. Prior to cooling the snake should be fasted for a period of 3-4 weeks to allow all food to pass through its digestive system. The cooling down can then begin, this should be a gradual process over a number of days until the desired temperature of around 8-10c is achieved, during this period feeding is stopped, but clean water should still be made available. The cooling period should last around 10-12 weeks during late November through to January. During cooling the animals should be disturbed as little as possible, although it is wise to make regular visual checks.In late January early February the temperature can be gradually raised again over a number of days and feeding can commence. Food slightly smaller than normal should be fed at first until the animal has had at least 2 to 3 meals. A normal diet can then be resumed.
At this stage pairs can be introduced and if successful copulation will then take place, this can last for only a few minutes to hours and be repeated over a number of days. During introduction the pair should be observed and if mating does not occur separate and try again a few days later. Introduction of the female after shedding has proved very successful in stimulating copulation.If copulation was achieved the female will cease feeding 2 to 3 weeks after mating.
The gestation period after mating is normally about 60 days, then around 14 days prior to laying the female will undergo a pre-laying slough,this is then an indication to put a nest box into the vivarium. A 5ltr plastic ice cream container makes an ideal nest box, this should be sealed with a hole cut in the front to allow access, this can then be lined with either damp sphagnum moss or vermiculite.The female will often enter the box for long periods of time prior to laying so one should make regular checks to see if egg laying has been completed. Once the eggs have been laid they can be carefully removed to a suitable container for incubation. Vermiculite is probably the most common incubation medium, this should mixed water equal to weight of vermiculite.The eggs should then be incubated at 90% to 100% humidity at a temperature of 26-30c and all going well should hatch in about 60 days.
During incubation some eggs may discolor, this can be quite normal, never discard an egg until you are completely sure the egg is bad, if fungus appears on an egg obtain some athletes foot powder and then using a very soft brush lightly dust the offending egg, this should help combat the fungus